Located in the Everest region, Mt. Pumori (7,145 m) is one of the frontrunners among Nepal's 7,000-m peaks as it provides the ideal conditions and technical practice for those eyeing to climb the 8000-m peaks. However, this, in no way, takes away the fact that climbing this mountain is a fascinating experience on its own right. The normal route to the summit of Pumori follows the Southeast Ridge before crossing over to the East Ridge for the rest of the climb. Requiring excellent physical and mental stamina and endurance, trudging up the mountain offers sections of wild snow-bound expanses, terrific views of Mt. Everest and Lhotse, and technical difficulty worth braving for any Himalayan alpinist. In fact, Pumori is a serious expedition peak that only experienced climbers should attempt.
The base camp can be reached by first flying to Lukla from Kathmandu and then trekking via Namche Bazaar, Tyangboche, Periche and Lobuche. The ascent of Mt. Pumori starts at a place 5,300 m in altitude situated beside a small but beautiful lake. From here, you get to take in a fascinating sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapattar (5,545 m). The climb is mostly a snow climb up fixed lines that we will all be taking part in fixing. Snow/ice climbing ability will be needed which means that experience in using crampons and ice axes are mandatory. Most of all, though, you will need to be in above average shape and a positive mental attitude is as important as being in good physical shape. We will be setting up three camps before making our final attempt on the summit. From camp 3, you have the option of either climbing to the top from the Tibet side or the Nepal side. The route up the Nepal side is the easier one.
The Southwest ridge route, on the other hand, is very difficult and involves a lot of technical challenges. This route goes directly along the top of Kalapattar and traverses straight over the ridge at an angle of nearly 75 degree.
| Pumori Expedition |
Trip duration: 32 days
Climb duration: 16 days |
|
| Day |
Itinerary |
Accomodation |
| 01 |
Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel |
Hotel |
| 02 |
Kathmandu (briefing) |
Hotel |
| 03 |
Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 04 |
Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding |
Lodge |
| 05 |
Phakding to Namche |
Lodge |
| 06 |
Namche (Acclimatization day) |
Lodge |
| 07 |
Namche to Tyangboche |
Lodge |
| 08 |
Tyangboche to Lobuche |
Lodge |
| 09 |
Lobuche to Pumori Base Camp |
Lodge |
| 10-25 |
Climbing period |
Lodge |
| 26 |
Base Camp |
Lodge |
| 27 |
Lobuche to Tyangboche |
Lodge |
| 28 |
Tyangboche to Namche |
Lodge |
| 29 |
Namche to Lukla |
Lodge |
| 30 |
Fly back to Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 31 |
Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 32 |
Transfer to airport for international departure |
|
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| Major mountains of Nepal |
|
| |
Mountain |
Altitude |
 |
Mt. Everest |
8,848 m |
|
Mt. Kanchenjunga |
8,586 m |
|
Mt. Lhotse |
8,516 m |
|
Mt. Makalu |
8,463 m |
|
Mt. Cho-Oyu |
8,201 m |
|
Mt. Dhaulagiri |
8,167 m |
|
Mt. Manaslu |
8,163 m |
|
Mt. Annapurna |
8,091 m |
|
Mt. Shishapagma |
8,027 m |
|
Mt. Pumori |
|
|
Mt. Baruntse |
7,129 m |
|
Mt. Amadablam |
6,812 m |
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