Makalu (8,463 m) is the fifth highest mountain in the world. It is an isolated peak located some 22 km east of Mt. Everest along the Nepal-Tibet Autonomous Region of China border. The size of this Himalayan giant alone is impressive, but its structure, which is shaped like a perfect four-sided pyramid clearly marked by four sharp ridges, makes Mt. Makalu all the more spectacular and alluring to behold. The mountain has two notable subsidiary peaks – Kangchungtse or Makalu II (7,678 m), which lies about 3 km north-northwest of the main summit and Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m) that rises about 5 km north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau and is connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow 7,200-m saddle.
Makalu has proven to be a challenging climb as only five of the first 16 attempts that were made on the peak were successful. In fact, the mountain is one of the harder eight-thousanders and is considered to be one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements of the weather. The final ascent of the summit actually involves technical rock climbing skills. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000-m hulk which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions. The mountain was first conquered by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco in May 1955. The French team climbed Makalu following the north face and northeast ridge via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse and, in the process, established the standard route.
| Makalu Expedition |
Trip Duration: 65 days
Climb Duration: 38 days |
|
| Day |
Itinerary |
Accomodation |
| 01 |
Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel |
Hotel |
| 02 |
Kathmandu (briefing) |
Hotel |
| 03 |
Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 04 |
Fly to Tumlingtar |
Camping |
| 05 |
Tumlingtar to Botebase |
Camping |
| 06 |
Botebase to Chichila |
Camping |
| 07 |
Chichila to Num |
Camping |
| 08 |
Num to Shadawa |
Camping |
| 09 |
Shadawa to Tashigaon |
Camping |
| 10 |
Tashigaon (Acclimatization day) |
Camping |
| 11 |
Tashigaon to Kongmala |
Camping |
| 12 |
Kongmala to Yak Kharka |
Camping |
| 13 |
Yak Kharka to Nehe |
Camping |
| 14 |
Nehe to Tadangsa |
Camping |
| 15 |
Tadangsa to Base Camp |
Camping |
| 16 |
Rest day at Base Camp |
Camping |
| 17 |
Rest day at Base Camp |
Camping |
| 18-55 |
Climbing period |
Camping |
| 56 |
Advance Base Camp to Base Camp |
Camping |
| 57 |
Base Camp to Nehe |
Camping |
| 58 |
Nehe to Yak Kharka |
Camping |
| 59 |
Yak Kharka to Tashigaon |
Camping |
| 60 |
Tashigaon to Num |
Camping |
| 61 |
Num to Chichila |
Camping |
| 62 |
Chichila to Khadbari |
Camping |
| 63 |
Khadbari to Tumlingtar. Fly back to Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 64 |
Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 65 |
Transfer to airport for international departure |
|
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| Major mountains of Nepal |
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| |
Mountain |
Altitude |
 |
Mt. Everest |
8,848 m |
|
Mt. Kanchenjunga |
8,586 m |
|
Mt. Lhotse |
8,516 m |
|
Mt. Makalu |
8,463 m |
|
Mt. Cho-Oyu |
8,201 m |
|
Mt. Dhaulagiri |
8,167 m |
|
Mt. Manaslu |
8,163 m |
|
Mt. Annapurna |
8,091 m |
|
Mt. Shishapagma |
8,027 m |
|
Mt. Pumori |
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Mt. Baruntse |
7,129 m |
|
Mt. Amadablam |
6,812 m |
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