Regarded as one the most accessible among the 7,000-m Himalayan peaks, Baruntse (7,129 m) – the head of Barun (Rain God) – is a prominent looking peak that spreads across the Khumbu/Chukung valley in the northwest, the Hongu valley in the Southwest and the Barun valley in the east. This beautiful snow peak was first successfully ascended by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow in May 1954 via the mountain's Southeast Ridge by setting up their base camp at the "snout" of the Upper Barun glacier. This is the standard route used by expeditions. Baruntse lies between Mt. Everest and Makalu and is gaining in popularity among mountaineers just as Pumori, Amadablam and Everest.
The approach to Baruntse is through the Hinku/Hongu valley. Two mountain passes – Tsetrawa La (4,600 m) and Mera La (5,500 m) – have to be crossed before base camp (5,450 m) is reached. The Barun-tse Base Camp is situated on a grassy meadow with a small lake next to the Hunku glacier. The approach to the base camp from Lukla, where we fly, requires approximately 7 days' walk through remote country. This area is used only by climbers and a few hardy trekkers.
Our climbing route is on the Southeast Ridge of the mountain. A deposit camp is set up at 5,800 m before advance base camp is set up near the West Col (6,135m) from where we climb the Southeast Ridge to the summit. The route is covered entirely with snow and ice does not particularly require technical skill apart from a place at around 7,000 m where there is a sheer ice cliff. Two higher camps, one at 6,420m at the foot of the Southeast ridge and another at 6,650m need to be set up before the summit can be attempted. Cornices pose some problem near the summit as some of them break at the mere touch of an ice axe. Anchors, harnesses, ropes, knots and, most importantly, the snow condition have to be checked thoroughly while fixing the route on this section.
The view from the summit of Baruntse is very impressive. You can take in the south face of Lhotse, Makalu, Chamlang and even Kanchenjunga in the distant east. After the climb, you may opt to return to Kathmandu the same way back to Lukla or take the Sherpani Col - Makulu base camp trail to Tumlingtar and fly back to Kathmandu from there.
From the safety point of view, the Spring season is the best to climb this mountain. Some climbers, however, have reached the top even during the Autumn season. Baruntse can be climbed using the Arun valley to Makalu base camp as well.
| Baruntse Expedition |
Trip duration: 34 days
Climb duration: 16 days |
|
| Day |
Itinerary |
Accomodation |
| 01 |
Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel |
Hotel |
| 02 |
Kathmandu (briefing) |
Hotel |
| 03 |
Fly to Lukla, trek to Chutanga |
Camping |
| 04 |
Chutanga to Chatra |
Camping |
| 05 |
Chatra to Dovan |
Camping |
| 06 |
Dovan to Thagnak |
Camping |
| 07 |
Thagnak to Khare |
Camping |
| 08 |
Khare (rest day) |
Camping |
| 09 |
Khare to Mera La Pass |
Camping |
| 10 |
Mera La Pass to Thulo Odar |
Camping |
| 11 |
Thulo Odar to Base Camp via Seto Pokhari |
Camping |
| 12-27 |
Climbing period |
Camping |
| 28 |
Base Camp to Thulo Odar |
Camping |
| 29 |
Thulo Odar to Khare |
Camping |
| 30 |
Khare to Saure |
Camping |
| 31 |
Saure to Chatrawa |
Camping |
| 32 |
Chatrawa to Lukla |
Camping |
| 33 |
Fly Lukla to Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 34 |
Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 35 |
Transfer to airport for international departure |
|
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| Major mountains of Nepal |
|
| |
Mountain |
Altitude |
 |
Mt. Everest |
8,848 m |
|
Mt. Kanchenjunga |
8,586 m |
|
Mt. Lhotse |
8,516 m |
|
Mt. Makalu |
8,463 m |
|
Mt. Cho-Oyu |
8,201 m |
|
Mt. Dhaulagiri |
8,167 m |
|
Mt. Manaslu |
8,163 m |
|
Mt. Annapurna |
8,091 m |
|
Mt. Shishapagma |
8,027 m |
|
Mt. Pumori |
|
|
Mt. Baruntse |
7,129 m |
|
Mt. Amadablam |
6,812 m |
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