Amadablam (6,812 m) is the most popular and perhaps the most beautiful among all the mountains in Nepal. It rises impressively a few miles due south of Mt. Everest and Lhotse and overlooks the famed Tengboche monastery, which stands sentinel over the Khumbu region. It vies with many 6,700 to 7,000-m peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, and outshines all by way of its classic beauty. It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. It is often compared to Matterhorn, a peak of the Alps in southwestern Switzerland near the border with the Italian region of Valle d'Aosta, but is about 3,000 m taller. Amadablam leaves an indelible impression on many trekkers in Nepal, as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp.
The name Amadablam refers to an amulet box (dablam) worn by a mother (ama) in the Sherpa/Tibetan language. The ascent route of this mountain traverses the classic Southwest Ridge route which was first climbed by Michael Ward, Barry Bishop, Wally Romanes and Michael Gill in March 1961. This is now the established normal route used by most expeditions.
To begin the climb, we first fly to Lukla for an 11-day pre-climb acclimatization trek to Kalapattar (5,545 m) from where we get a close-up view of the Southwest face of Mt. Everest before arriving at the Amadablam base camp. The base camp is located on a big level grassy field at an altitude of 4,500 m. This place is traditionally used as a pasture for grazing yaks by the yak herders of Khumjung village.
The advance base camp (ABC) is located higher up at 5,200 m. Two higher camps above the ABC have to be set up before we make our final push to the summit. Onward from camp I (5,815 m), care is required to overcome some exposed rock sections known as 'Yellow Tower' to reach camp II at about 6,000 m. This is a very small camp located on a very exposed section of a ridge, and is barely sufficient enough to accommodate 2-3 tents.
The climb from camp II to camp III (6400 m) involves expert alpine rock climbing skill as we encounter ice gullies, corniced ridge and an ice wall. After camp III, a perfect 50- degree snow and ice slope leads to the summit of Amadablam. The climb requires one to be competent in alpine ice-climbing technique and have experience climbing on mixed terrain carrying a pack on one's back.
| Amadablam Expedition |
Trip duration: 31 days
Climb duration: 17 days |
|
| Day |
Itinerary |
Accomodation |
| 01 |
Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel |
Hotel |
| 02 |
Kathmandu (briefing) |
Hotel |
| 03 |
Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding |
Lodge |
| 04 |
Phakding to Namche |
Lodge |
| 05 |
Acclimatization day |
Lodge |
| 06 |
Namche to Tyangboche |
Lodge |
| 07 |
Tyangboche to Pangboche |
Lodge |
| 08 |
Pangboche to Amadablam Base Camp |
Lodge |
| 09-25 |
Climbing Period |
Camping |
| 26 |
Base Camp to Pangboche |
Lodge |
| 27 |
Pangboche to Namche |
Lodge |
| 28 |
Namche to Lukla |
Lodge |
| 29 |
Fly Lukla to Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 30 |
Kathmandu |
Hotel |
| 31 |
Transfer to airport for international departure |
|
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| Major mountains of Nepal |
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| |
Mountain |
Altitude |
 |
Mt. Everest |
8,848 m |
|
Mt. Kanchenjunga |
8,586 m |
|
Mt. Lhotse |
8,516 m |
|
Mt. Makalu |
8,463 m |
|
Mt. Cho-Oyu |
8,201 m |
|
Mt. Dhaulagiri |
8,167 m |
|
Mt. Manaslu |
8,163 m |
|
Mt. Annapurna |
8,091 m |
|
Mt. Shishapagma |
8,027 m |
|
Mt. Pumori |
|
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Mt. Baruntse |
7,129 m |
|
Mt. Amadablam |
6,812 m |
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